At the foot of the cross

I ask for your prayers. The arch of my left foot has been hurting for the past two weeks. It's usually a dull ache but once it was an acute pain. It fills me with concern and anxiety as I depart today for my pilgrimage.

My aches may be making me feel down, but I am confident that it won't hold me back. Something has been calling me to the foot of the cross for too long -- drawing me to love unlimited, to care for others always - to allow this to just stop my pilgrimage.

Instead, the journey might be changed.

The journey might be massaged and morphed and mutated into something that wasn't conceived in my imagination and original plans.

The journey might become less; and, it might become more.

From the many lessons that arose from my last Camino, and from prayerful discernment, I've come around to understanding the need to give up the need to control my journey. Father Richard Rohr has stated that the opposite of love is not doubt; the opposite of love is control. I've spent far too much time controlling my path instead of allowing God's plans and routes to unfold.

So I will try to not let the instinct-to-control own me. I will be intentional in diminishing the fear it wants to create in me. And the way to do so is to let that instinct free. Let it float away. Accepting the plans of the Holy Spirit is so much more difficult than I imagined, yet it also is so much more liberating than I imagined.

And allowing Her to show me a different way may mean revealing my own hurts and pains first. Again, this will be ok. For whether or not I have disappointments in coping with these limitations placed by my body and mind, I should try to yield and accept changes to purely man-made facades. For these man-made edifices were built by me. They might have been inspired by my love of Christ, molded by experience with others, tempered by flawed relationships, but they are mine and not God's plans for me. I don't have some hotline to know what Her plans truly are so I must listen and listen well.

So yield I must try. And pray I will. And if you, as I begin this pilgrimage, walk and yield, pray and walk with me, then I truly will be on a pilgrimage with God beside me. And as we make our away along the foot of the cross, we can carry each other along to places that feed us deeply.

Buen camino, peregrino.

Reviewing the 2014 Camino: A Compilation

For the past few months, I've reviewed my Pre-Camino, Camino, and Post-Camino posts on a Facebook group. If you're interested in joining that group and are on Facebook, you can point to http://bit.ly/mel-healing-camino.

Finally, I've finished my reviews. This entry in Let All Who Are Thirsty Come compiles those thoughts into one blog post, starting with the first reviews until today's review. I want to thank you for re-walking that pilgrimage with me and for joining me on this one. 50 hours left before the flight!

To be honest, I had NO IDEA that I've been spending this much time reflecting. For those who read all this, practically a small book it seems, I thank you for sharing in my journey. I appreciate your prayers as we go together on our pilgrimage for the next two months.

1) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Camino de Santiago - Going Alone, Together"
http://letallwhoarethirstycome.com/camino-de-santiago-this-pilgrims.html


I'm so glad I'm reviewing my perceptions and preparation from my last Camino. I just re-read prep #3 and have already begun showing some ponderings about what it means to be alone AND together. This blog posting was 3 weeks before I left and the nervousness and not yet reached its pinnacle. I knew that I would be alone and not alone, yet as the time grew closer, I became more nervous and concerned about isolation. What is a blessing about this post is that so many things in it were shown true on the Camino. People walk together into each others lives or they may sit at a cafe and share a brief moment of circumspection. But we're on our journeys together, but on our own, and by ourselves, but not alone.


2) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Lasciate ogni speranza"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/08/camino-de-santiago-lasciate-ogni.html

Abandon all hope all who enter here. I liked my thinking here. It's definitely true. Taking a pilgrimage like this isn't a time for Hope. It's a time for Trust. Trust and be transformed.



3) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Cruz de Ferro"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/08/camino-de-santiago-cruz-de-ferro.html

This remains one of the most meaningful stops for me on the Camino. It's about 150 miles from Santiago de Compostela. Throughout your camino, you carry a pebble or stone from where you started. You leave it here at the foot of the cross, as a symbol of all the burdens you carry. This blog posting anticipated my arrival very well.

“All great spirituality teaches about letting go of what you don’t need and who you are not. Then, when you can get little enough and naked enough and poor enough, you’ll find that the little place where you really are is ironically more than enough and is all that you need. At that place, you will have nothing to prove to anybody and nothing to protect.
That place is called freedom. It’s the freedom of the children of God. Such people can connect with everybody. They don’t feel the need to eliminate anybody . . .”
― Richard Rohr, Healing Our Violence through the Journey of Centering Prayer

PART 2

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/08/camino-de-santiago-capo-de-finisterre.html

In re-reading this preparation for the Camino from fall 2014, I'm struck by my comparison to Ash Wednesday and Lent. It seems well timed to offer it to you then during this Lenten season. The subject of this meditation was my visit to the Faro (Lighthouse) at the Capo de Finesterre (Cape at the end of the world). The Romans thought this was the Westernmost area of Europe so would have ceremonies asking the sun to return the next day. In the cycle of life and pilgrimage, I think it still resonates. Check out the blog posting. May your journey reach the farthest shores and yet, at the end, find that light comes anew the next day.


4) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "What's On Your Playlist?"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-whats-on-your.html

Ahh how timely. This weekend I coincidentally skimmed over my phone's music library to see what pieces I need to add or remove (to make room) before the Camino. I didn't play the music ever while walking. I listened to the music at night as I wrote my thoughts down and fell asleep. It certainly helped to mask the snoring in the albergues. But more, I would play music that reflected my day's journey. Interestingly, I never played orchestral classical music. I wanted words with lyrics. The Taize hymns were probably my favorite, as the chanting carried me into sleep. And, as in life, it's not just the high notes and the notes in between that caught my attention: the empty notes in between were spaces that mimicked the beats of the walking foot, the steady heart.



5) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Who's On Your Praylist?"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-whos-on-your.html


I find it disappointing that I was praying for Ferguson back then when so little has changed since then. Also, I've truly been filled since joining Lay Eucharistic Visitors right after that Camino. Now, just before this one, I've been trained and am serving as a lay counselor. Somehow the walking prayer feels consistent with the movements inside me heart at home.



6) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "This Pilgrim's Prayers"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-this-pilgrims.html

I still like the mix of prayers I brought with me. It's a blend of prayers and hymns. All of these will accompany me on this coming Camino. Perhaps you too will join me in these prayers.




7) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Preparing"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-way-preparing-11.html

Wow. I wrote this just days before I left in 2014. It reviews the movie The Way. More importantly, I anticipated that I would come across people, friends, characters, in ways that I could not plan or anticipate. And it totally happened that way, surprising me not because it happened but in the ways it happened. Moreover, despite my best efforts to pack less, I still overpacked and carried more with me than I needed, things that burdened me and held me back. Now that's a metaphor for life.


8) Pre-2014 Camino Reflections: "Road Not Taken"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-road-not-taken.html

This post from Sep 9, 2014 has really caused my stomach to turn. In it, I mentioned that I wanted to avoid judging others, to avoid judging myself, to be open-hearted and open-minded about my camino as distinct from the journeys of others. And yet I know in retrospect the challenges I faced on my walk: my choice to stay in Astorga, my avoidance of the a fellow peregrino, even my conversations on the plane home. It's a challenge to keep an open heart and mind to those I don't know or with whom I disagree. It's a challenge to give myself permission to change plans. It's a challenge for me to be free of biases. The pilgrimage underscored that for me, laying it plain at my feet. I hope that in the two years since, I've made progress. But we are never there. We are always moving. The Spirit guides us and it's up to us to keep following.

9) Reviewing that first Camino: "Arriving in Burgos"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-1-camino-de-santiago-madrid-to.html

AKA Yes, I injured myself and lost something within hours of arriving

What is it about me that I forget life lessons? I know I'm not alone, but are we so conditioned that it takes countless repetitions of mistakes to finally work towards our goals? I think so, but it frustrates nonetheless. I still lose things. I still trip and bleed. But I'm more sanguine about these weaknesses, as I know that I'm still moving in the right direction. Awareness is a start. Help from others is part of the effort. And some day, one day, maybe I'll lose fewer things, and bloody fewer knees.

(And honest appraisal: I bloodied my knee during the family's participation at a mud run in Chino this weekend. How's that for a gentle if messy reminder?)


10) Reviewing that first Camino: "Remember the Names"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-2-recap-i-better-write-these-names.html

I'm surprised that I didn't notice some of the themes of that first day of walking, my second day in Spain. I titled the blog posting "I Better Write These Names Down". It was about remembering the names and stories of the people I meet.

How fitting, given how moved I was when, within 30 minutes of walking, I saw my first Camino-side grave. I remember praying for Rev Wren. Thank goodness his name was written down and remembered by his loved ones. How fitting that my morning began with me noticing how far I was from home. How fitting it was that I found some notecards from Stephen to send me off on my Camino in love.

Which is why this day was so meaningful. The first lesson of my pilgrimage already hit me. It's about relationships, stories, people. I may have fidgeted with my backpack in pain and possibly hurt some toenails, but if anyone today asks me about what I recall from that first day, I talk about the people. I talk about the stories.

Life is too short to focus on pain. Wouldn't it be grand if we always remember the people we meet and how they affect us in ways unplanned.

We are never alone. We cannot make this journey on our own. We will not survive physically or mentally or spiritually. So write down those names, and remember those who walk with you.


11) Reviewing the 2014 Camino - "40 by 50"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-3-40-by-50.html

The 2014 day started with such promise. Early wake up to my first full day walking. Started with the two Canadian women who also turned 50 but we separated after an hour. At least three hours of lightning and rains that made me question why I was doing this. But despite the discomfort, I knew that my load was lighter than those who had no choice but to sleep in the rain. This pilgrimage is a privilege that allows me to see things with new eyes. It wasn't foisted on me. So I trudged, weary, appreciating somewhat better the struggles of those who lack shelter every day.

PART 2

The long day in the rain
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-3-recap-of-long-day-in-rain.html

Upon re-reading this blog posting, I was surprised by the metaphor towards the end. It was a struggle of a day. What I thought would be a 35km day turned out to be 41km. I ached and was grumpy, was soaking wet, and lost my scarf once the clouds burned off and I got hot. I heard live music and saw fireworks, yet needed to rest. Anyone who's ever watched me at a live music show knows how much I find joy in most any performance. It must have been special kind of exhaustion for me to just turn over and go to sleep. To pass up on joy because I needed to tend to myself. We all need to repair our bodies and souls, and yet it's sometimes disheartening when we cannot take part in that which truly enlivens us. Health and joy shouldn't be pitted against each other, but all too often they are. May you and I find both in harmony on our lives.

12) Reviewing the 2014 Camino - "Creature Comforts"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-4-creature-comforts.html

As I read this, I notice that this day was when I started to get my footing. I got a little rest because it was a shorter day. I also got to enjoy an exciting city like Leon. And perhaps most importantly, Susan from Atlanta and I got lost yet we mutually helped each other find our way back on our path. Isn't this so much like life? We lose track and might not even notice it on our own. And with the support of others -- helping them, helping us -- we pull together and can find our way once more. That... that's the sort of place where God wants us. That's the sort of place that brings comfort and stillness to our lives.

13) Remembering the 2014 Camino "Changing Plans"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-4-recap-changing-plans.html

I posted about comfort on day 4 but that wasn't the lesson. The real lesson was about changing plans, not controlling the camino (your path, your way, your life), but just walking your camino, your path, your way, your life.

This review strikes me in a most powerful way right now as I make my spiritual journey. I cannot force my way; I must live it.

So the prayer that I had for the end of that day in 2014 still remains:

May we not be hemmed in by the journey of others;

may our road be one of fulfillment not obligation;

May we open our eyes to see what was laid before us;

May the stars guide our feet to the place we are meant to be.

14) Remembering the 2014 Camino "The Change was worth it"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-5-change-was-worth-it.html

I remember this day much. I was more tired going up the hills than I should have been, but the heat was a bit more than expected. Most surprisingly for me as I review what I learned is that I keep having to re-learn these lessons.

And that's ok. We're human and we depend on others and on Christ to stay the course.

And the course isn't what our best laid plans are. Not at all. The course is being true to ourselves, to what we were meant to be, to what bring us closer to God. Sometimes that means going outside of our plans, plans which are of our own human design.

So I'm grateful for the reminder of a lesson of that day: Go where you are called and be thankful

15) Remembering the 2014 Camino - "Offline day of friend and tears"

http://www.LetAllWhoAreThirstyCome.com/2014/09/day-6-offline-day-of-friend-and-tears.html

This was a day of loneliness. Loneliness because after a delightful, powerful morning walking with a new friend from Canada, I spent the latter half of the day disconnected. I was offline because there was no wifi, but more importantly, offline because the contrast between the morning and the afternoon/evening was so stark.

I had not yet realized what was happening. Though I was fully anticipating a great deal of time to reflect on my own, I was more fully present with the face of God by sharing stories with another. Without the feeling of connection, without that community, it was actually that much harder to feel myself walking in the presence of God.

May our mutual affection and love bring us closer to seeing God.

16) Remembering my 2014 Camino - "Cruz de Ferro"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-6-cruz-de-ferro.html

I'm truly wrecked re-reading this blog posting. I filmed via re-enactment a video that's shared here. But what moves me is what I did. I admitted without any hesitation that the re-enactment was a sanitized moment of my personal act... where I could be strong, where I wouldn't be crying.

But I did cry. I sobbed, gasping for air. I didn't film that intimate moment because I wanted to be more composed. Distilled. Strong.

I'll be frank here. This is singularly the area I'm most focused right now. I'm trying to stay "in the moment", always with a knowledge and acceptance of my authentic self. If I grow weak, if I mourn, if I cry out, if I fall to my knees in humility, I need to accept that this is ok. That there's no need for a mask. That I must be something more than I am. 

I'm thinking that when I return on this Camino of Healing, I lay down the burdens of all who walk with me in that stone. But there's something else I must do.

I'm bringing a stone from the Grand Canyon. I FELT that I was in a thin space, closer to a divine indescribable world that I imagine the Native Americans felt in this never-ending valley. I will place this sacred stone down for others. And that something else I must do?... I will place it for me. For my weakness, for my pain, for my tears. Leave it out there in public for all to see.

And I'll leave that stone there, in the rain, in the sun, in the wind, in the dark... There... at the foot of the cross.

The video is at http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-6-cruz-video.html

17) Remembering my 2014 Camino - "Rainbows on Rocks"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-7-rainbows-on-rocks.html

That was one of the prettiest days I've ever walked. What struck me though was an "ouch", when a non-English speaker bluntly pointed out that I wasn't wearing the "right" shoes for hiking. (I don't like hiking boots, as they get too hot, so I wore hiking sandals.) As was brought up in the sermon yesterday, our brains are hardwired to spend far more time on negative thoughts than on positive ones. So despite the beauty, I pondered the comment.

I don't fault the speaker as I imagine he meant well. In fact, I ran into him on my last day at Finesterre and learned he was a surgeon from Croatia. It's more that rather than being caring as he advised me, he made me feel foolish. As I pointed out in the blog, there are many opportunities for us throughout life to help and care for others. And during those times, it's far too easy to pass judgment and seem critical rather than compassionate.

I ended that day, people watching in Ponferrada, with a prayer that I don't hurt the people that trust me to care for them.

18) Reviewing the 2014 Camino: "Sitting with the Wine and the Lamb"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-7-sitting-with-wine-and-lamb.html

The two other moments of the day "Rainbows on the Rocks" are pleasant to recall. Though saddened by the injured sheep, it comforted me that the shepherd patiently waited and made sure they came along. The metaphor during a long journey was not lost on me.

Moreover, the opportunity to slake my thirst with wild grapes alongside the road, grapes I didn't see until I sat to rest, opened my eyes to see that gifts are there all around us. It's by pausing, breathing, accepting our tiredness that we might actually see these gifts.

19) Remembering my 2014 Camino: "May the rain fall softly on your fields"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-8-villafranca-del-bierzo.html

As I review my blog posting of that day, I noticed how I started with gratitude for the food and wine at breakfast and lunch. Then, as the rain started to come ever harder, I had to pause as I watched the workers toiling in the vineyard. And I had to be thankful. As I ate dinner that night, my prayer thanking those who collected and prepared the food seemed so much more poignant. 

20) Remembering my 2014 Camino: "O what a Day"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-9-o-what-day.html

The walk up the mountain, crossing into the province of Galicia, to the village O Cebreiro was challenging, frustrating, breathtaking, and of all things touching. Surrounded by mud and vertical trails, I saw people helping each other, encouraging each other, smiling at each other. And all basking in the radiance of sun bursting through misty fog and hill-hugging clouds. How fitting in retrospect then that I should end the day listening to "Ubi Caritas" (Where love and charity are, God is there) at mass and having just honey and cheese for dinner.

21) Remembering my 2014 Camino : "Descending into Hello"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-10-descending-into-hello.html

It was such a simple blog. It recounted all the great people I met along the Camino on that day. And yet these people have stayed with me in the most personal way. We encouraged each other, laughed with each other, were astonished at the weird solar powered vending machine in the middle of the forest with each other.

I'm not sure if I recognized it just quite yet, but this might have been the turning point for me with realizing that my pilgrimage to walk with God was a pilgrimage to walk with other pilgrims. It's clear now... But it takes 40km after 40km after 40km, some of that through free range chicken ummm residue, to work its way into my mortal brain.

Thank God for friends.

PART 2

At tonight's Taizé service, the lectionary reading was the road to Emmaus (Luke 24:13-35)

As I read it aloud at the chapel service, I found myself thinking about my post earlier today... I walked on a pilgrimage just like the gospel reading and also was oh so slow to see the face of Christ in the person walking beside me.

Wow

I pray this night that you, who are on this pilgrimage with me, will always see the Christ in me and me the Christ in you. And that if I am to walk in the way of faith and of healing, see sooner rather than later that Christ already is there beside me

The reading:

Now that same day two of them were going to a village called Emmaus, about seven miles from Jerusalem. They were talking with each other about everything that had happened. As they talked and discussed these things with each other, Jesus himself came up and walked along with them; but they were kept from recognizing him....

He said to them, “How foolish you are, and how slow to believe all that the prophets have spoken! Did not the Messiah have to suffer these things and then enter his glory?” And beginning with Moses and all the Prophets, he explained to them what was said in all the Scriptures concerning himself.

As they approached the village to which they were going, Jesus continued on as if he were going farther. But they urged him strongly, “Stay with us, for it is nearly evening; the day is almost over.” So he went in to stay with them.

When he was at the table with them, he took bread, gave thanks, broke it and began to give it to them. Then their eyes were opened and they recognized him, and he disappeared from their sight. They asked each other, “Were not our hearts burning within us while he talked with us on the road and opened the Scriptures to us?”

22) Reviewing my 2014 camino: "Me, Ourselves, and Why"

http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-11-me-ourselves-and-why.html

This journey you are taking with me has been so enlightening. Reviewing this blogpost, I note the feeling that the pendulum of awareness has swung. My search into and for my authentic self involves my community with others, whether they come fleetingly or repeatedly. And I was learning from both the young and the experienced.

What was my journey without the company of others? What is community without me? I even brought friends from home, like Stephen​ and Dan​, on my quest. Such was the deepening lessons of this pilgrimage. It was humbling and enriching to accept our need for each others' fellowship, that pilgrimage or not, we can't do it alone.

And it was so very helpful to reflect that the adventures of discovery and awareness by my Austrian friends are the same I yearned for when I was their age. The same that I yearn for today. The same that I will seek in another three decades.

23) Not a Review but a prayer to include everyone on this journey

Some may have seen my post that the circle of life has weighed heavily upon me for the last couple years. Two weeks before our marriage in 2014, Stephen's brother Tim passed on. 12 hours after our wedding reception, we carried our wedding flowers over to his memorial...

Tim finally yielded to cancer. He will also be with me - literally - in my backpack. He will be prayed over in Lourdes and some of him will remain there. And he will walk with me along the entire Camino all the way to the ocean.

We all walk with joy and fear, love and sadness. May we always walk that journey with God's light shining in our hearts




24) Reviewing my 2014 Camino posts: "Preconceived Notions and Judgment"
www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-12-preconceived-notions-and-judgment.html

This was a defining day and evening for me on the Camino 2014. I learned much, breathed much clean air, was profoundly impressed by the journey of Emma and her son Karol, grew deeper in relationship with my Austrian friends, and spent much time alone in my thoughts and spiritual reflection.

And...

And I fell victim to my own preconceived notions and biases. I rushed to judgment.  If you read the blog post, you'll see that I judged Jim from Alabama without hearing his story.

I was up all night. Like Jacob wrestling with the messenger/angel, I could not accept the message that was brought to me. I thought I was learning. I thought I was discovering myself and becoming aware.

And I was still a work in progress.

I struggled and wept 1/2 the night away, no small task when you've walked over 20 miles with a backpack. I wondered if my walk was in vain.

In retrospect, I now know better. It's just a step on my journey. I needed to see my frailties and my less than loving self. It's a lesson I work on and will likely forever face, for that journey is indeed my way. And I'll walk on, knowing that I might not reach my goals as a mortal person, but I'll be ever closer, ever nearer, ever more loving than I am today.





25) Reviewing my 2014 Camino: "Lost My Hat, Found My Head"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-13-list-my-hat-gained-much-more.html

It's funny how we protect ourselves with hats. They provide comfort, safety, and shade. And yet sometimes, they cover our eyes, keep us from seeing what's around us, prevent us from letting our hair down.

By accident, I lost my hat on this date. Stephen wondered how many of my items I'd lose on the Camino, since I tend to misplace things all the time. Yet I wasn't bothered. It was a perfect metaphor for the day. For as I lost my hat, I found my head. And I could see ever more clearly.

I at first thought I needed more time alone to process the day's painful lessons. But what I needed was companionship, friendship, and non-judgmental affirmation. I was quite humbled that these young Europeans wanted to walk with me. And it made me fully grasp that though we are works in progress, with the help of others, we can grow to be oh so much more.

We often won't see what's happening all around us if we're always comfortable, safe, and in the darkness. I pray that we let go of our hats and see, hear, feel the Holy wind swirling all around us.




26) Reviewing the 2014 Camino: "The Way"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-14-way_27.html

Yesterday, the blog posting from two years ago talked about losing my hat, but finding my head. Or, sometimes to see things more clearly, you need to take off the things that have protected you and shielded you in the past, because no matter the usefulness, they will block you from others as well as yourself.

Today, the reviewed blog posting records our final day, the walk into Santiago de Compostela. I had been contemplating the events from the preceding hundreds of miles and by the last couple hours, most of the pilgrims fell silent. It was an awe-inspiring sight without sound. Pilgrims thinking to themselves, step upon step.

There are a couple other blog postings that followed but I think this one reflected our silence that day. My blog merely recorded the events and let the Spirit continue to speak to me in that silence between the words.

So in the spirit of that silence, I'll just say "We arrived... and then we continued our journey."




27) Reviewing the 2014 Camino: "Are we there yet?"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/days-14-16-in-santiago-are-we-there-yet.html

Had a wonderful breakfast with good friend Gerti​ this morning. She just completed a pilgrimage to Italy that included visits to St Francis and St Benedict. We discussed the end of her pilgrimage and this impending pilgrimage I start on Thursday.

So how fitting that today's post reflects on my blog entry "Are We there yet?", the events once I got to Santiago de Compostela. My pilgrimage had ended, or so it seemed. But had it. Was I there yet? Or was I still en route to some place I searched. Was I still as always at the beginning?

And as we talked, it came up that my time on vestry of All Saints Pasadena came to a close the day she returned from pilgrimage. That experience for the past four years, too, has been a journey for me. It has come to an end. Or is it still continuing? Am I still at the beginning?

And as we talked, it occurred to me that her husband John​ was there when I got nominated for Vestry and Gerti helped mentor me when I began my term. That marked the beginning of the vestry journey that just ended.

And this post, which felt like an ending of the pilgrimage until I saw the blessing via the, let's face it, outrageously enormous incense bomb called the botofumeiro. While sitting in that church, I realized that this wasn't a blessing of ending. It was a blessing of a journey, wherever I am on that journey of faith.

So wherever you are on your journey of faith, may you be blessed by our Creator that our journey, like life, has no beginning or end, just milestones and resting places, glorious mountains and desolate valleys, bounty and thirst. Let's walk together and know that all who are hungry are welcome.



28) Reviewing the 2014 Camino - "It's the End of the World as we know it"
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-16-it-end-of-world-as-we-know-it.html

Forgive the 1987 REM Song as a title. It's a fave from back in the day and seemed to fit this blog posting memory. (Video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0GFRcFm-aY)

Finesterre means "Ends of the World", as the ancients mistakenly thought it to be the western-most edge of the known world. So temples were built and rituals performed to pray that the sun return the next day.

I didn't need to know that the sun returns tomorrow. Science says it will in our minds, and Easter shows it will in our hearts. But that doesn't mean we can't stop and reflect on the idea of the end of things.

I think today I would focus on the seeming darkness that comes upon us, regularly, unbidden. It stays our lives and forces us to be still. And somehow we need to be unafraid, though in truth, we all experience the fear of the unknown darkness, sometimes often, sometimes unexpectedly.

And yet, and yet. The sun does return. We don't have to pray for it. Like grace, it just comes whether our hearts are gripped by anxieties or not. Do we acknowledge this gift and blessing? Or do we rail against dawn because of the work that must be done? Why do we do so? Shouldn't we be glad that we have another day, another chance, to face the challenges before us?

I burned some notes that day at the edge of the world, letting the ashes of my words and fears die into the setting sun. The journey went as far as it could go that day, that camino. And yet, and yet. Tomorrow, the journey resumes.

... and I feel fine.



29) Reviewing my 2014 Camino: (After Camino) “No More Arrows”
http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/10/no-more-arrows-day-in-salamanca.html

On my last day in Santiago de Compostela, I attended the pilgrim's mass at the Cathedral and got to see the famous botofumeiro, the largest censer in the world, spraying incense as it swings up to the tops of the high transept ceiling. My video is at http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/10/day-16-botafumeiro.html

It was after a day spent in Finesterre, where as I mentioned yesterday, I burnt some notes there at the Atlantic Ocean to mark the end and yet also the beginning of a journey. The video is at http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/09/day-16-finisterre-fire-video.html

As I left Santiago on the night train, I wondered about the rest of my visit. You see, I built in a few extra days in case I got injured. If I finished as expected, I could then visit a few other towns before returning home.

And all throughout that time and while visiting Salamanca, I habitually looked for arrows to guide me, as though I were still on the camino. Of course I saw no arrows.

No scallop shells point the way.

No directions.

No guideposts.

Just our language skills, our hearts, our senses to guide us. It seemed rather jarring and somewhat frightening. But that’s what the world is like from day to day isn’t it?

And aren't those arrows on the Camino giving us a false sense of security? Follow them blindly, and you may walk right past the restaurant when you hunger or the dormitory when you need to stop for the day.

Yet all around us, it's possible to get hints. We look at signs, we hear directions, we sense where we’re supposed to go. But when we look, are we seeing? When we hear, are we listening?

Aren't the directions actually there, not obviously, buried deeper within, within our hearts, within the hearts of those we encounter?

On this third day after the Feast of the Ascension, may we be fully aware that the we’ve been given many clues and directions to guide us, aware enough to begin incorporating those directions into our journey. And may the lack of easy arrows liberate us from false security on our way to true happiness.



30) Final Review of my 2014 Camino: "After the Walk, Where do I Stand?" http://www.letallwhoarethirstycome.com/2014/10/after-walk-where-do-i-stand.html

What a journey! It's almost like another camino to review these blog posts.

It seems my takeaways summarized here are
a) Follow my own path, my own camino
b) I won't be alone
c) I may depend most on those I knew least
d) Monitor my reflexive judgment

Please re-read the story about the young man on the plane in this blog. I've kept that (and the story of Melides) in the back of my head since the 2014 Camino. It's motivates me greatly to set aside my selfishness to see if I can understand the needs of those who I might not know or appreciate.

Messengers, or angels as the Bible calls them, are often depicted with wings because they fly in from nowhere with an urgent message, sometimes a call, to inform or to act. In the 270 camino miles (370 total) from those weeks in 2014 Spain, I had angels fluttering at me from all directions at all hours of the day.

So as the title asked, where do I stand today?

I think the question should have been "How Do I Stand?". How, because life is an ever moving river, and our journeys are not static. If we are to have lives moving towards reconciliation and healing, we must be in motion. It might not be with our feet, as a Camino implies. It might be deeper inside that we keep moving. For "How do we stand?" when our hearts beat on, filling us with life, beating as one with the angels around us?

Packing for the Camino

For over two years, I've written about preparing spiritually for pilgrimage, and yet there's always the question of practicality. How does one physically prepare for the Camino de Santiago? How does one pack for it?

For the physical preparation: I walk often and everywhere. This is more true now that I've been on Camino and have gotten the mindset that everything is within walking distance if you have enough time. If you're concerned about physical situations, start walking.

Walk one mile (17-22 minutes for most people) twice a week for a few weeks. Then add a mile. Keep doing so until you reach a point where you're satisfied with your endurance. Don't forget to bring water. Once you reach that satisfaction point, start carrying a backpack with stuff in it. Add more.

Your walking doesn't have to be only on trails. A good portion of the Camino is through areas akin to city and suburban streets. Mix it up with parks and suburbs and beaches. And if you have mountains or hills nearby, include them gradually into your regime.

Packing is not that different. It's an art form that needs just as much practice and forethought. It's not about money for the fanciest, most expensive item. My convertible pants can for example go for $90 ($65 if on sale) at REI or $25 at Sears. This isn't a fashion show.

Ideally, it's said that your pack should not exceed 10% of your body weight. I try to follow that rule, with the exception of the weight of water needed for the day.

So here's a breakdown on what's in my pack. It's got a couple extra items in it that add a 1/2-lb or so but it's 5-lbs less than I brought 2 years ago. Also, I will be carrying about 2-4 pounds of water from Lourdes that I will be sharing with pilgrims who feel in the need of heeling.

In the descriptions below, "for town" means clothing needed once I arrive at a place, shower, and now can lounge at the albergue or walk about town.

Figure 1 - Clothing

Clothing (Figure 1)
The clothing choices here are based on late May-early October pilgrimage. If you travel before mid-May or after mid-October, there's the possibility of snow and your clothes need warmer options. My legs rarely get cold but my torso does, so it's all about layering.

• Convertible trousers, where the bottoms can unzip leaving you shorts. You then pack the bottom leggings away. In reality I'm likely to just wear them as shorts most of the time, except when it rains. I wear them as trousers on the plane because overnight transcontinental flights are notoriously cold.
• 3 quick dry shirts (2 alternating, wearing one while I wash and dry the other; the third is for town)
• 3 quick dry underwear (2 alternating, wearing one while I wash and dry the other; the third is for town)
• 1 Shorts for town 
• 1 Long sleeve T-shirt for town
• 1 Light jacket
• 3 outside socks (thicker, knee high)
• 3 inside socks (comfy, extra to avoid blisters)
• 1 pair of sandals so that I don't have to wear my shoes around the albergue or town
• 1 rain poncho that can cover me and the backpack concurrently 
• 1 pair of light gloves for the early morning (carrying a flashlight can leave your hand cold)
• Bandana loop that can act as a scarf, headband, etc. Many buy the "Buff" brand but I find them unnecessarily expensive.

Figure 2 - Clothing that I won't be wearing but will be in the pack

I put this picture in Figure 2 out so you can get an idea of how minimal clothing should look

Figure 3 - Backpack, Back Brace, Walking Stick, and Daypack + Contents

Items needed while walking (Figure 3)

• 48L backpack. The rule of thumb is maxing out at 40L to keep the weight down but I found that the larger pack has more pockets for easier access. I found that the smaller pack sat oddly on my back and was quite frustrating to access small items, which sometimes required me to partially unpack everything. Note the assortment of bungees and lockable carabiners.
• Back brace - I sometimes tweak my back and I am in much discomfort sitting on a plane for more than 3 hours. I wear the brace while walking so that I don't accidentally twist my back while putting on and taking off the backpack. It also helps me to maintain proper posture while walking, an important part of endurance and avoiding injury.
• Various 1 gallon and 1 quart ziploc bags.
• Toilet paper. Seriously, you never know what the bathroom will have. And if you're on a trail and there are no options, please bury it our carry it out in a plastic bag like you would while walking your dog.
• Walking stick. Mine is actually monopod that serves as a walking stick. I use it to take pictures with less blurry shakiness.
• Camino shell - symbol of the Camino pilgrim. Some wear it on their neck. Most keep it on their backpack or daypack.
• Flashlight - I got this one at 99 Cents Only and you don't need batteries. Just squeeze it repeatedly for a few minutes and it's fully charged. Sunrise for May and June is around 7:30-8am and sunset is 10pm or later (after normal pilgrim bedtime). Since I start at 6am to avoid the mid-day heat, I need the flashlight for about 60-90 minutes.
• Camera. I wasn't going to bring one but since I'm staying after the Camino for a week of tourism, decided I wanted my camera.
• Wide brimmed water-proof hat. Baseball caps shelter your head but they do nothing for your neck and ears.
• 2L camel with tube. I use the 2L because there aren't many places to refill on the Pyrenees. Where the trail is more populated, I fill it up only halfway and carry about 1L of water at a time.
• Blue vial to carry a small dose of healing water from Lourdes. Not pictured is a 1-2 liter container that I will get and fill in Lourdes. The small container will make it easier to share the water with others.
• Notepad with pen.
• Individually wrapped snacks that will last me on the 5 less populated days of the Pyrenees, which are right at the start. No need to risk a sugar crisis when one is a borderline diabetic. One in three American adults over the age of 20 has this condition.
• Wallet that has a coin pocket for Euros. Stone that I'll leave at the Cruz de Ferro is currently in that pocket at the moment.
• USB charger and cable. I got a solar one. If it works, great; if it doesn't and I must charge at the wall, I'm no worse off. It carries a 12,000 mAh reserve.
• Passport and Camino passport in a ziploc bag.
• The mobile phone was used to take a picture so it's not seen. Some say leave the mobile phone at home. I keep it so that I can coordinate with Stephen and others that I meet. Also, I prefer to blog to journal rather than to write on paper. It also has tunes for the night, and prayers, the bible, and Book of Common Prayer for the morning and bedtime.

Figure 4 - Items needed at the shared bathroom & dormitories

Items I need at the albergues at bed or in the bathroom (Figure 4)

• Blood pressure medication and ibuprofen. Here's a tip. Take a pain killer like ibuprofen when you check in to an albergue, hostal, or hotel. That way, if you nap or since you have stopped walking, you won't be as likely to suffer leg cramps. Also, I take them if I know I'm going uphill in the next hour so that to reduce risks of any discomfort in my back.
• Instead of a microfiber towel (the texture invariably feels weird to me), I'm using a sarong for a towel. It can wrap around the waist unlike small microfiber towels.
• The flat water bottle is for bed. You may get thirsty at night. A normal cylindrical bottle may roll off the bed. The flat one won't.
• The mesh bag can hang easily at the bed or clothesline. It's also helpful if your laundry doesn't dry out the night before. You can tie the mesh bag to your pack so that your clothes continue to air dry.
• The sleeping bag liner is all that's needed at this time of year. If I'm colder, I can put on my light jacket
• The camera charger cable is likely used at night if that battery runs down.
• The hangable toiletries bag allows you to hang and access while in the shower.
• A quick dry latherer / exfoliator feels so good after a long day sweating.
• Euro wall charger with multiple USB ports.
• Earbuds, eye cover, and Compeed for blisters.

Figure 5 - Extras & Emergencies

Emergency and Extras (Figure 5)

• Earbuds
• Charger cable
• USB charger with a USA plug for layovers
• Extra camera battery
• Ankle braces for my easily injured ankles.
• Surgical tape may prevent blisters from forming so I'm bringing some to try out. Supposedly, you wrap it around the areas where you tend to get blisters and it will help tremendously.

Shoes (Figure 6)
Two years ago I wore hiking sandals. This year, I decided to wear hiking shoes. I don't wear hiking boots because my feet get too hot.

I may still wear my hiking sandals however. The arch of my left foot has started to hurt this past week, and it could possibly be due to the new shoes which I'm breaking in.

Please keep me in your prayers as I struggle with this choice and pre-trip pain.

Hope this helps. Figure 7 shows what you look like at the end of packing this 18-lb pack (and wear some of the clothes).

Figure 7. Peregrino

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Preparing for the Camino de Santiago in 2016

Credentials from my 2014 Camino de Santiago pilgrimage

Once again, I'll be walking the Camino de Santiago, leaving Los Angeles on May 12, 2016.

Rather than starting in the traditional city of St Jean Pied-de-Port, France and following the Camino Frances, I will start in Lourdes, France. This small city sits at the foot of the French Pyrenees mountains. Starting there will add an additional 130 km (81 miles) or so, depending on the route I decide to take, on top of the typical 800 km (500 miles). Based on past experience, I will likely walk another 100 miles just wandering the villages sight-seeing churches and landmarks.

Why start in Lourdes?

My 2014 camino pilgrimage was pretty much about me. It was an opportunity to discover myself, to pursue some discernment about vocation, to explore my purpose. The pilgrimage was also an appropriate way for me personally to celebrate my 50th birthday year.

And as you may have read from my blog postings from the 2014 journey, I noticed that numerous people needed to be with other people, needed to share their lives and pains and joys, needed to find healing. It touched me that they would share this with me. I found it amazing that I could minister to their needs and offer an ear, a heart, a touch that could provide solace or healing. My 2014 blog postings are on the right side navigation: Preparing for the Camino de Santiago 2014 and my posts during and after at Camino de Santiago 2014.

So I'll start in Lourdes, France. Lourdes has been known for two centuries as a pilgrimage site of healing. Millions of people every year head to Lourdes to be blessed. By touching, tasting, and washing with the waters of that community, the pilgrims seek to move from a place of illness and hurt to one of reconciliation and well-being.

I will start out with my own efforts to find healing. As the phrase goes, "physician heal thyself". First, I want to have a couple days of reflection, self-care, and attention to physical and spiritual health. Then, taking some of the healing water with me in a container, I will carry the blessed waters from the Lourdes grotto and take it on the camino with me.

And all who wish to be anointed with the holy water, to be blessed in prayer, are welcome to that water. I will share the blessings with all who seek it, and pray that they be healed.

I've confided to some that my 2016 camino will be all about others. I amend and correct myself publicly now. One can never take a pilgrimage for others. One takes a pilgrimage for themselves. But, my camino will be a shared camino. In sharing the holy water, in sharing the healing, in allowing myself to be in communion with others, I will find myself fed and nourished, and share in the bountiful grace of God. That's my camino in 2016. That's why I will start in Lourdes.

---

I may be walking with friends from church along this trip. If schedules work out, I'll be meeting some at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. Others might be joining us in other cities and villages. Because of this, I will walk on average 25 km (15 miles) each day instead of my normal 35-40 km (22-25 miles) . This is related to making my journey a part of others' lives and not about my own. My husband Stephen, after school lets out and he goes on his annual teaching vacation, will fly out and join me in Leon - a 300 km (200 mile) pilgrimage.

In the meantime, my camino walk continues. I'm rather surprised at my attraction to walking now. I used to walk around downtown Pasadena. Instead of driving to various places or to church, I would just walk. Now, I work from home. That actually began the month before my 2014 pilgrimage. And surprisingly, I walk everywhere now. I've walked to family gatherings in Glendora almost 40 km away.

It started gradually, with about 5-7 mile walks every other day. Now I find myself walking to downtown Pasadena from home, an almost 10 mile round trip, several times a week. Rather than driving to lunch, I just walk. As of this posting, I've walked 1360 miles since New Year's Day, about the distance from New York City past University of Nebraska in Lincoln. I don't even notice the physical part any more. It's part of my journey in mind, body, and spirit. I'm seeking more time away from busy interpersonal interactions to have time with myself, time to ponder and free associate, time to reflect and pray.

(Note: For 2015, I ended up walking 2100 miles. That's the distance from NY to Salt Lake City... Los Angeles to Pensecola Florida... Chicago to Mexico City... Manchester England to Istanbul Turkey...)

I hope you join me, online or even along the Camino Frances, walking beside me as I journey towards my journey of healing.

Camino - Practical Questions I've Been Asked by Those Who May Walk the Camino

Frequently Asked Questions

These are questions I've been asked since my return. This list will be edited as the questions keep popping up so feel free to bookmark it and return.

Did you use a guidebook?

Most Americans use the following guidebook: A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago by John Brierley. We truly depended on this book. As such, we love John Brierly and also want to smack him on the side of the head when he's wrong and your feet hurt.

Where do you start?

Most start in St Jean Pied-de-Port on the French border and follow what historically is called the Camino Frances. It goes through a pass in the Pyrenees Mountains. You will literally be exposed to French, Catalan, Castillian, and Galician cultures doing this 800km (500 mile) walk. Because of my time limits, I started in Burgos. There's a direct bus that goes from Madrid's airport to Burgos. The village Terradillos de los Templario, a short bus ride from Burgos, is exactly half way along the Camino Frances.

You get to SJPP and the French border most easily by flying into France and taking a train. There are daily trains from Paris.

Do I need to climb mountains?

It depends on where you start and what you consider to be mountains. If you start in St Jean Pied-de-Port you are definitely heading through the Pyrenees. According to the most common guide book that Americans use (John Brierley), that first day is a rise from 200m (650ft) to 1400m (4750ft). Further on, heading up into Foncebadon where the Cruz de Ferro is placed, you are up at above 1500m (5000 ft). Both of these are gradual over the course of a day. In Galicia you face a steep climb in a short distance at O Cebreiro. It rapidly rises from 600m (1970ft) to 1300m (4265ft) in just 8km. Though this is stunningly beautiful, it's the steepest stretch.

At no point do you need mountain climbing equipment. I did all this with my hiking sandals and a hiking pole.

Is it blazing hot?

It depends on the time of year and where you start. The weather is comparable to higher altitude Southern California. If you go in June-August, expect it to be quite hot after 11am. It's a reason why many people prefer to start their day at 6am: by leaving early, you can finish before or rest during the hottest time of the day. I just went in September. It was wonderfully nice in Burgos, but when you are out on the meseta without any trees, it sure feels a lot hotter than it actually is. A 27C (80F) day might seem comfortable but bring lots of water. By the time I got to the rolling hills and the mountains, it got chilly at night but it would warm up to a nice cool, breezy day.

In the winter, it snows. It won't be hot.

Lastly, it rains for no reason whatsoever at any point, especially in the mountains. Spain juts into the Atlantic and when the rain clouds want to come in, they just come in.

Are there places to stay every 4-6 hours?

The Brierley book shows popular places to stay and there are more that it does not list. Places to eat and stay are almost always within two at most three hours walk at my pace of 5.5 kph. A typical pace of 4kph will put you within food and shelter at 3-4 hours at most. What will vary is the type of accommodations you will find.

What are these accommodations?

These are the four levels of accommodations that I found and used:

• Albergue - dormitory bunk-beds, co-ed rooms, sometimes co-ed bathrooms and showers (private stalls). These are usually 5-10euro (slightly cheaper if you go to the municipal ones versus the privately run ones). They are similar to youth hostels because they are usually closed from 8am-1pm so that they can clean the facility. Most have kitchens that you can use to cook your food. Many offer three course dinners with wine for under 10 euro. Many have washers and dryers for a 3-5 euro fee each. Most now try to give many electrical outlets to charge your devices. Bring a sleeping bag or a bag liner because the pillowcase and liner they provide are pretty useless.
• Hostal - inexpensive motel or possible rooms within someone's home. These are private rooms. They almost always have a private bathroom. The price ranges from 25-50 euro.
• Hotel - Full service hotels like anywhere in the world. Prices start at 50 euro.
• B & B - I found a lovely B&B in Villafranca del Bierzo. I had a private room but shared the bath and the breakfast and living room areas were wonderful.

Although I stayed in private rooms every few days, by the end I stayed in the albergues as much as possible because that's where you meet and bond with people best.

And don't forget, you can always share the hostal, hotel, and B&B with new friends. That can cut the cost.


Tell me about the stamps?

Order your credentials (a sort of passport) in advance for free at http://www.americanpilgrims.com/camino/credential_req.html . You will bring these credentials with you and get it stamped wherever you stay and eat. You can also buy one at the starting city, but it's much easier and free to get it in advance so that you don't spend your trip abroad searching for an office that might be closed depending on when you arrive. The one at Saint Jean Pied de Port is 1/4 mile up the hill from the church on the Rue de Citadelle, among many stores. The credentials there cost 3 euro.

Remember to get at least one stamp each day and two stamps each day during the last 60 miles. That's required to get the compostela (certificate of completion) in Santiago de Compostela at the end of the trip.

The office to get your compostela is on the south of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. When facing the front facade, go to the right side, towards the rear. You'll see the fountain and the stairs / entrance to the south transept. Turn right and it's a few doors down on the left. Expect a long line. There's much fewer people at 8am if you're willing to wait until morning to get your compostela.



How heavy is your pack?

They say to limit your pack to 10% of your body weight. Obviously if you're smaller or thinner, this makes it tougher. My pack started out at 27-lbs with water. I hated it. I started to leave things behind everywhere so that I wouldn't have to carry it.

So my suggestion is: whatever you think you want to bring, bring less. Cut the weight in half. Everything weighs more after hours of walking. Everything weighs more after they get moist from rain. Everything weighs more when you are thirsty and hungry. Everything weighs more when you get blisters. I truly want to bring only 15-lbs with water next time, as that is a far more comfortable weight for me.

What would you bring in your pack now that you know better?

I decided I just need two alternating sets of clothes for walking and one for in-town to sightsee and eat dinner. This is my list if there is no chance for snow:

• Small flashlight. I brought a rechargeable one because batteries weigh so much (I just recently found a rechargeable kind at the 99cents Only store. You squeeze it for a minute and it recharges. I wish mobile phones could be this easy!). If you go in the summer, you might not even need a flashlight, especially if you intend to start after 7am.
• 3 underwear, thigh length because it reduces male chaffing. Two hiking, one for in-town.
• 1 lightweight walking shorts
• 1 lightweight walking trousers (I might skip this because I never wore them, even in the rain).
• 2 walking shirts (athletic style so that they wick moisture easily and dry rapidly). 
• 1 long sleeve lightweight warm shirt
• 4 pairs hiking socks. This could be three but I value socks far more than any other clothing on the Camino. My blisters will testify how a clean fluffy pair of socks can be wonderfully soothing. Hiking socks are thicker and fluffier. I found "worker's socks" at Big Lots at 2/$5 that work as well as the expensive $30 pairs at the camping stores.
• Safety pins (can keep things together AND be used with blisters)
• Medicine. (cold & diarrhea). Just enough for two days because there are pharmacies everywhere.
• Ibuprofen/Advil (I took it daily after every walk. I ached less and could walk around the village in comfort. If there's one suggestion I have for pain management, it's to take some just after you get to your accommodations. )
• Various size bandages, enough for emergencies since there are pharmacies everywhere
• A tiny tube of antiseptic cream like Neosporin
• Mobile device charger and a small converter. I have a multi-port USB charger that already has the European power outlet so don't need a converter.
• Earphones to listen to music on your device or earplugs if you don't like snoring
• For some, sleeping attire (if you're like me and just sleep in your underwear, you can just pull off your shorts in your sleeping bag and don't need this. I used shorts that could be swimming trunks so it served double duty.)
• flip flops or sandals
• A few clothespins
• A couple bungies and few carabiner clips
• Camera charger because a mobile phone cannot zoom enough to see distance. I have done the trip before so I won't be bringing a camera with me any more.
• For some, a very light journal if you don't journal on your smartphone
• 6 empty small, 6 empty medium, 6 empty large ziploc bags
• Water bottle with tube (much more convenient than having to reach around or take the bag off just to drink water)
• Rolled up water bottle - rolls up and most importantly, it lies flat on your bed so you can have a sip of water in the middle of the night and it won't roll onto the floor (or onto the lower bunk)
• Emergency pair of glasses
• Very light towel, perhaps microfiber
• Tooth brush, tooth paste, floss, nail clippers, loofa mit (nothing strips off dirt as quickly)
• Rosary
• Sleeping bag or liner (best if it's bedbug resistant - why take chances?!)
• Rain Cape (for you and the backpack)

Pack small things in ziplocs (not the empty ones because they're for the trip). Ziplocs are total multi-use bags of awesomeness.

Things you will be wearing and are not in the pack:

• one or two hiking poles
• hiking shoes or sandals
• 1 wide brimmed hat
• 1 scarf for your neck if you burn easily or sweat a lot
• Mobile device (if you want it like I do)
• Camera (a mobile camera can't zoom well enough yet but when they do, I won't mention this). I won't bring one anymore since I've done the trip before.
• The clothing you are wearing that day
• A small very light day pack/purse. I used it to bring my valuables with me to dinner so that I wouldn't leave the passport and money alone in the albergue. Better safe than sorry. 
• A lightweight mesh bag. This was useful to carry laundry that needed to dry a few hours more in the sun and air
• Swiss army knife. I used it to cut food and open wine bottles. I learned this when I backpacked through Europe in my college days: nothing is as delightful as having a picnic at a park or stream with just some water, If you bring your pack as a carry-on, you cannot bring this on the plane. You will need to buy it after you leave the airport. Otherwise, it goes in the checked luggage.

Why so few clothes? Because you can just wash and dry your clothing at every stop. Believe me, you'll realize that we're too obsessed about washing clothes once your back starts to complain that the pack weighs too much.

Things I won't bring again:

• iPad. I brought it in case of a work emergency. Many places have computers. This was silly of me and showed how my nervousness kept me from trusting the Camino. Learn to trust that you will be fine and you will be much happier.
• Cold and flu medicine - there are pharmacies on every block in every city and usually one every few villages
• So many bungees
• Plastic bags. You can get plastic bags at the grocery store
• Spoon and fork. The knife acts as a fork. As for a spoon, I didn't buy anything to eat that needed a spoon so I left it behind at some albergue.
• Sunglasses. The hat was sufficient and it felt less personal when talking to people.
• Shampoo - and maybe even soap. We're obsessed with this stuff. Our hair doesn't need to be shampooed daily. It's under a hat most of the day. As for soap, unless you're wallowing in the mud, most of the stuff just rinses off. I had one tiny soap bar that I used with the loofa and it was more than fine. 
• Laundry detergent. I'll bring it but definitely just a small amount because you don't need much just to wash sweat and dust off. Most of the time, shampoo and ordinary soap are sufficient.
• Inflatable pillow. Every place had a pillow. And even if they didn't I could have just rolled up my jacket and it would have been fine.
• Wind-breaker. The rain cape was fine
• Lip balm. It was drizzly often so my lips were fine. If I needed it I could buy it
• Vaseline. My feet were sweaty all day so had no need for it after all. .If I needed it I could buy it.
• Hair gel. Seriously, nobody expects you to look good on the camino. Buy some at the end of the trip if you really need it.
• Big honking power strip. I need to buy a small plastic gadget that splits power to multiple outlets. I brought this thing because it's what I always bring to Europe on business trips. Well this isn't a business trip and it weighed 1/2 kg when a small splitter would weigh a couple ounces. It was handy but not worth the weight.
• Umbrella. It was handy once I got to the village, but I could have lived without one until after the trip.
• Coins. Coins weigh a lot. We Americans often pay with dollar bills, but they have 1 and 2 euro coins that weigh a ton. Use them up before reaching for a 5 euro bill.
• The guidebook. Next time I'm going to just scan the stupid thing and keep it on my phone because it weighs so much. I did that for the most part anyway. I would just photograph the next few pages of my journey, delete the old pages, and use that so that the book wouldn't get wet while walking.
• Electronics. I brought many more wires than needed just in case I left things behind. As though there aren't electronic and mobile phone stores in Spain.

Last minute items?

There are stores everywhere, especially pharmacies.

One tip that I think will help if you're starting at St. Jean Pied-de-Port is to check out the stores right next to the camino credentials office. The office is towards the top of the hill. Go to the church and head up the hill. It's 1/4 mile up the hill. Across the street is La Boutique du Pelerin (1 Place Floquet tel 05-59-49-12-77). You can email directioncompostelle@orange.fr and pre-order items. When I repeat my trip, I intend to leave my swiss army knife at home so as to avoid checking in luggage or airport security and simply buy one at the store when I get there.

What shoes did you wear?

I think 75% wore hiking boots, 20% wore sneakers, and 5% like me wore hiking sandals. No matter the shoe, make sure it has excellent support and tread. Your feet will swell up after so much walking so don't get anything that's already snug while wearing your thick socks. Get something that's 1/2 size larger.

Where do you fly?

If you are starting at St Jean Pied-de-Port, then you usually fly into Paris and take the train down. If you are starting anywhere in Spain, it's much easier to fly into Madrid. There are direct trains and buses directly from the airport. Whatever you do, don't start walking the full walk on the very next day. Take a day off or walk only a few miles the next day because you will likely have jet lag.

Is it scary?

The United States is a scary country. Spain is not scary. I felt perfectly safe. The scariest thing for me was reading in Burgos how some bishop recounted his arrival to the cathedral and, on his way, saw a pilgrim getting eaten by a wolf. Say what? Well, that was centuries ago, and while I definitely saw dogs, I saw no wolves. The dogs were more scared by you clanging your hiking pole than you are by them.

Also there was the senior citizen who hiked very quickly but actually dragged his feat. And he didn't use a flashlight. Imagine hearing in the dark "shoosh shoosh shoosh shoosh" coming ever closer to you. Other than images of a slasher movie on the meseta, that was about it.

Is it only for the religious?

It's for everyone. I'd say that 50% of the people had faith or spiritual-based reasons for their journey. Of the rest, I'd say 2/3 still had some questions or issues they were confronting: what do I do now that I've been laid off, It's my 50th birthday and I want to do something memorable. I don't want to go to university so what should I do, should I move to another city or country?

Is it lonely?

There are times when you walk alone for stretches. The longest stretch for me to be alone was about 3 hours. You do see people, though, as they walk by so it's up to you to decide whether to remain alone. I found it incredibly easy to chat with people. That might be biased because I am told I can have a lovely conversation in a room by myself.

The loneliest moment for me was when I was in a room full of people. I sat at a long table where the only English speaker was at the opposite end. Nobody at that table spoke English, French, or Spanish so I had nobody to talk to. The English speakers were mostly at other tables that were already packed. Admittedly, this gave me a great incentive to learn some German so that I could have a better chance next time.

Do I need to speak Spanish?

I can answer this in several ways.

• No. You can get for the most part with English, though you will likely just be pointing at the menu.
• Yes, you will be far better off if you speak some Spanish. 
• Definitely yes if you want to understand what they're saying to make decisions about where to stay.
• Not as much if you can speak French, German, Italian, or Portuguese.

Continental Europeans learn other languages. They say they don't speak, but they're just nervous. The worst English speakers are usually far better than our very good Spanish language speakers.

Camino specific words that might help if you know spanish but never thought you'd be taking a pilgrimage:

• Backpack - mochila
• Walking Stick - bastón
• Blister - ampolla
• Foot -pie
• Leg -pierna
• Pain - dolor
• Medicine - medicina
• Pharmacy - farmacia
• Doctor - doctor
• Vegan - vegano
• Gluten-free - sin gluten
• Vegetarian - vegetariano / sin carne
• Normal Water - agua sin gas
• Toilet - baño / servicios / lavabos / aseos 

What if there's no room at the albergue?

See if there's another one in town. If that's full, consider a hostal or walk to the next town. In September, I never had to walk to the next town or have to sleep outside.

What's the food like?

A pilgrim's menu is offered in many places and albergues. It costs around 8-10euro. It's a three course meal. The first course will be something like one of the following (or a choice of one of the following): mixed salad, spaghetti, soup. The second course will be something like one of the following (or a choice of one of the following): pork chop and fries; bacon, eggs, and fries; meatballs and fries; sandwich and fries; and of course, fries and fries. The last course is dessert where you get or choose: helado (ice cream), a piece of fruit, flan, cake. Bread and wine / beer / water comes with everything.

It's a good value. If you're not as hungry, you can order from the a la carte menu at a bar or restaurant. A bocadillo (sandwich) usually costs around 3-5 euro and are large and meaty. A tortilla usually means an egg omelette with potatos.

Walking around, you can grab an ice cream for 1-2 euro, a cafe or chocolate for 1-2 euro, a bottle of water (if for some weird reason there are no water fountains) for 1-2 euro, a soda pop for 1.5 to 2.5 euro.

There are cafes in the middle of nowhere. Bars and pubs are cheaper than restaurants. You will be charged for a seat outside on the terrazzo (usually 1-2 euro).

Credit cards?

Credit cards usually are taken at restaurants and supermercados but with a 10 euro minimum. Know your Pin number. If you don't have a Pin number, try just pressing the green RETURN button without a number. This usually works but some places (like the train and bus station) don't like this.

Albergues are cash only. You will need to carry enough cash to pay the albergues. ATM machines work with most US bank cards, but there is usually a transaction feel of 2-3%.

There is a credit card company called Capitol One that has a credit card without a transaction fee. Whether you use that company or another, remember to call the company and let them know the dates you will be traveling overseas and which companies you will be visiting.


Mobile Phones?

You can activate text, voice, and data with your own mobile company to work abroad. This is usually expensive. If you have T-Mobile, the regular subscription allows you to use the phone internationally. Confirm with them that they still have this feature.

If you have another phone carrier, or if you want a less expensive option, have your phone unlocked by them. This isn't a mechanical lock. They can lock and unlock your phone remotely. USA mobile phones are often locked by default. Once unlocked, you can buy a mobile phone SIM card at the airport or in town in Europe. Common phone carriers in Spain are Orange, Vodafone, and MoviStar. For the price of 25-40$US, you can get a couple GB of data, free text, and discounted voice for a month. If you're walking for longer than a month, you just renew.

Wifi ("Is there Wifi" is "Hay Wifi" and pronounced "I weefee") is available in many restaurants and now at most albergues. Notable exceptions are in tiny villages like Foncebadon where there is no wifi anywhere.

Day 16 - The Botafumeiro

So...

This happened

(Friday September 26, after the 7:30pm mass in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella)

From Wikipedia

One tradition has it that the use of a swinging censer in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral began in the 11th century. Arriving pilgrims were tired and unwashed. It was also believed that incense smoke had a prophylactic effect in the time of plagues and epidemics. Of course, incense burning is also an important part of the liturgy, being an "oration to God", or form of prayer.

Many other cathedrals had similar large thuribles at one time. However, most of the other cathedrals discontinued the use of their swinging censers over the years.

Day 2 - It's time

I'm a morning person and like to hike early before work. Seems like a natural to just wake up, say my prayers, and go.

It's awfully dark outside at 6am so I hope that the sun starts peeking out. I shouldn't count on it though as rain seems to be here early. Though it was warm and sunny today, it looks like some rain is due every single day of my journey.

Lord, give me strength to overcome mud, slips, falls, and discouragement. 

I have until 10:30am for my bus to Terradollos de Los Templaros (as in THE KinghtsTemplar) which is exactly halfway along Camino Frances. I will just do a short "practice walk" to Sahagun. I shall go pray at a couple churches and check out the Castillo.

Buen camino

Day 1 - Camino de Santiago - Madrid to Burgos and the challenges begin already

I was disappointed that there was no Burgos bus leaving, as described online, every half hour. Finally took off 10:45am. I got in Burgos just after 1pm, got rest waiting, and realized I somehow already lost my back brace. I must have left it on the plane but don't recall taking it out. I was told I'd be leaving things behind on the Camino, but I haven't even left the airport.

Burgos is a small city that was once an ecclesiastical powerhouse. I started by checking into my Marriott hotel. Not very humble no doubt, but I wanted to hit the ground running tomorrow without jetlag. A comfortable bed will certainly help.

Then I went with a walk about the cathedral, more or less across the street. Lovely. Somewhat over the top but in a wonderful Gothic way. It was far more French than I realized and as spectacular as I imagined.

Then I walked 3km to Decathlon, a sporting goods store. Got almost all I needed, including a replacement back brace.

While walking back, I had a great view but also I got my first injury. It's a gorgeous 30C day but I was walking over dirt, tripped on my newish hiking sandals, twisted my left ankle some, and tore up my right knee. The blood stopped more or less but it's going to be a challenge to get me to focus focus focus at all times.

I went over to the Museum of evolution and got a Peregrino discount. The Atapuerca dig is just a short distance away so they had original fossils and artifacts of the first humanoids in Europe. What a marvelous way to begin a journey: studying the first explorers of this continent!

Then I visited the Cathedral. I got my first pilgrim stamp! I was quite happy to get that first one on my credentials. Unfortunately, the Cathedral doesn't give a discount on your first day. Nonetheless, it was stunning and a marvelously weird blend of French, German, and Spanish influences inside. Not bad for a building started in 1221. I stayed much longer than expected.

I walked back to the hotel and washed the bloody leg. I then ran (sort of) back to the cathedral to catch the Rosario and misa.

The rosary was awesome. Someone get my mom and dad here; they would have loved it. I was floating on air. Then the mass came and, though the homily went on a touch too long, it was lovely. Lots of older folks and peregrinos. Best part were all the prayers for us pilgrims. I got teary at them. Worst part was this priest's voice while singing. I got teary at him.

I walked around looking for pilgrim tourist trinkets but found nothing. I did enjoy sitting around the river walk and Plaza Major.

Realizing I hadn't eaten since breakfast on the plane, I finally grabbed a bite at Copas Rotas, an everything under 4 euro bar and cafe. Had pieces of pollo, patatas, y vino tinto de Navarre - todos sin gluten. All for 3 euro! Then had one final treat of a 2.50 euro froyo

Having gotten my initial mass and meal down, it's time for vesper prayers

Now it's time to rest, for the adventure begins in the morning.

Paz